The Norcold broke (again) and I am going with a Residential.

[bob_b1]

My Norcold 682 model has had the cooling unit replaced once, the eyebrow board once, the temp probe once and the ignition module twice. The ignition module is now shot and I refuse to put more good money into bad.

I found a Vassani 10-cu ft. model from Home Depot that will fit the opening. I bought a Xantrex 1000W modified sine wave inverter with remote power switch and bought a Xantrex Automatic Transfer switch.

Two Southco Grabber Catch Latches have been ordered (as per suggestions here) to keep the doors shut while underway.

A 3/8" gas cap and some wood trim were purchased from Home Depot.

I am hoping to use the existing 2-battery bank to power the fridge and am really looking forward to having a reliable fridge for a change.

The parts are all on order and I would like to tackle the project this weekend.

As there seems to be a lot of postings on the trim work for the fridge, I will try to post my experience on the setup involved prior to the fridge:

• The gas line will need to be capped.
• The inverter install.
• The transfer switch install.
• The removal of the old fridge.
• The sealing of the old vents (if necessary).

***Edit March 24 2014: As promised, I am posting a follow up. See my post from today.

[bob_b1]

bob_b wrote:
I found a Vassani 10-cu ft. model from Home Depot that will fit the opening.

I wanted to warn anyone who is reading this post to avoid buying the Vassani brand from Home Depot.

The design of this fridge is not meant for the conditions of an RV.

I noticed that it sometimes won't cool, even if it is at the highest setting.

It has an operating range of 50 degrees to 85 degrees. I thought that this was merely a suggested efficiency range. It’s not. The fridge will not run the compressor outside this range. For tailgating events in the fall, the outside temps can easily fall below. In the reviews, some people bought this to use as a beer fridge for their garage and noticed that it won't work. According to one user, a work-around is run a light-bulb in the compressor area to keep it above 50 degrees.

According to another user: The defroster is not a mechanical one. It is electronic and will not run when using an inverter. The problem: It will stop the freezer from running too. Fortunately, I have not experienced this problem while running on the inverter.

Buy a Whirlpool instead. It is just $100 more and has none of these problems or restrictions.

For now, I just don't feel like pulling the fridge and returning it.

Hopefully this post will spare someone else.

[John___Angela]

I suppose there are a bunch of factors that would play in. I don't know what a 10 cubic foot fridge would draw. I know our inverter readout jumps up about 95 to 105 watts when the compressor is on but it only seems to come on for about 20 to 25 minutes per hour. From our experience I think a couple of 160 watt panels would go a long way to covering the needs of a 10 cubic foot fridge. JMHO

[Almot]

California or not, 10 cu.ft frig with inverter will draw ~100 AH. With other loads it will be ~140 AH a day for somebody who does try to conserve, and +200 AH for somebody who doesn't. This sounds to me like 600-700W panel in the areas that are mostly sunny and more watts where it's not too sunny.

As I recall, in Baja in winter I had about 10 hours from sunrise to sunset, and 490W array couldn't harvest more than 120 AH on the coolest and sunniest day.

[John___Angela]

Almot wrote:

John & Angela wrote:
Good job. Now throw a couple of 160 watt panels on the roof and you can go dry camping.

It's more like 4 160w panels.

Heh heh. yah I guess it depends on how long your day is and how sunny it is. Perfect condition 2 would probably cover it for those smaller compressor but yah it doesn't hurt to upsize a bit if you are going to have partially covered days etc. I have to remind myself that not every one has 10 to 12 hours of clear blue sky every day like we do in California. 🙂

[Almot]

John & Angela wrote:
Good job. Now throw a couple of 160 watt panels on the roof and you can go dry camping.

It's more like 4 160w panels.

[John___Angela]

Good job. Now throw a couple of 160 watt panels on the roof and you can go dry camping. Love our residential.

Happy trails.

[westend]

Attaboy! Always nice to hear a happy ending.

[bob_b1]

bob_b wrote:
The Xantrex 1000-watt XPower Inverter wasn't up to the task of starting the Fridge. Even though it had 2000 watts of surge capacity, I still had an overload situation.

Finally the cold of winter let up this past weekend and I was able to complete my installation.

As was suggested, I installed the inverter much closer to the batteries using a short length of 2-gauge wiring.

Success!:)

The Xantrex 1000-watt XPower Inverter was able to start the fridge.

I stalled a relay so that the fridge automatically switches over to the shore power when I am hooked up.

[bob_b1]

Thanks all. I hope that this does the trick. I'll let you know once I am able test it out.

[Gdetrailer]

bob_b wrote:
I will do the test when I get the chance.

Admittedly, there are few things working against me:

• I am using 8-yr-old Trojan T-125 batteries
• There is no direct connection to the battery. I found some open 12V lugs on the side of my PD9160 Converter
• Although there is 2-guage wiring from the Converter to the Inverter, there are tiny 8-guage wires feeding the PD9160 from the battery.

I would love to connect the inverter where the battery connects to the power solenoid, but it is a complete mystery where it is hiding.

At this point, I am tempted to spend some REAL money on a pricey 2000-watt Tripp Lite ADP2012 Inverter/Charger that is connected via a short 2-guage wire to a pricey VMAX 175-amp AGM battery.

Existing 8 ga wire most likely is causing too much 12V drop.

I used two 3 ft long pieces of 1/0 directly to the battery.

If possible, temporarily move the inverter to right beside the batteries.

Use 8 ga or even two 10ga in parallel only long enough to not have to rest the inverter on the batteries, run a 120V extension cord to the fridge.

See if that helps.

Good rule of thumb for 12V high draw items is to use as fat of wire as possible and keep it short. Bigger wire = less voltage drop.

If that works then get yourself some 1/0 and place the inverter as close to the batteries as possible.

[DryCamper11]

bob_b wrote:
At this point, I am tempted to spend some REAL money on a pricey 2000-watt Tripp Lite ADP2012 Inverter/Charger that is connected via a short 2-guage wire to a pricey VMAX 175-amp AGM battery.

A 2000 watt inverter draws 166 amps at full output. 2 gauge is maxed out at 95A to 130A, depending on temp rating of the cable. The manual will call for bigger than 2 gauge. I'd run 4/0 gauge.

[DryCamper11]

bob_b wrote:
There is no direct connection to the battery. I found some open 12V lugs on the side of my PD9160 Converter

Although there is 2-guage wiring from the Converter to the Inverter, there are tiny 8-guage wires feeding the PD9160 from the battery.

You'll get a huge voltage drop driving through 8 gauge. That's almost certainly the problem. Testing with the converter driving as per Mr. Wizard's post might confirm this.

[bob_b1]

I will do the test when I get the chance.

Admittedly, there are few things working against me:

• I am using 8-yr-old Trojan T-125 batteries
• There is no direct connection to the battery. I found some open 12V lugs on the side of my PD9160 Converter
• Although there is 2-guage wiring from the Converter to the Inverter, there are tiny 8-guage wires feeding the PD9160 from the battery.

I would love to connect the inverter where the battery connects to the power solenoid, but it is a complete mystery where it is hiding.

At this point, I am tempted to spend some REAL money on a pricey 2000-watt Tripp Lite ADP2012 Inverter/Charger that is connected via a short 2-guage wire to a pricey VMAX 175-amp AGM battery.

[MrWizard]

i think you need more batteries
what is the age ,size , type etc.. of the two batteries you now have

try this test
shore power plugged in
your new ats disconnected or turned off
fridge connected to use inverter power not shore power
test with inverter on in use and
converter charging batteries, to be the extra batteries you do not have

if it works, inverter is ok but not enough battery
if it doesn't work, inverter is not strong enough

(if it exists) the inverter surge problem is time related..
it doesnt hold tne surge rating for a long enough 'time period'
it holds for milliseconds, when it needs to hold for 'Seconds' 5~10 IS ENOUGH
my pv1250 will hold 2500 for 10seconds
and 1875 watts for many minutes
it will power my 1100watt MW, that draw 1650w
and bake a potato
i prefer using the generator for this to save battery.. but it has come in handy late at night