1500 vs 2500

[mr61impala]

The trailer we are looking at weighs #5595 according to Grand Design, with a hitch weight of #505.

We will get a new tow vehicle to handle this weight, I am considering 1500 Eco Diesel, 1500 Hemi and 2500 Hemi. I absolutely love the smooth and quiet personality of my 2010 1500 with 4.7L engine, so my initial thought is to go with the 1500 as it will be my daily driver.

I will look for 3.92 gearing as it made a huge difference in my 1996 1500 with 318 when I re-geared it from 3.55 to 3.92. (actually 39 ring gear teeth and 10 pinion teeth equals 3.90.)

I've heard the 6.4L is a beast in the 2500, but the 5.7L in that application will tow almost twice what this trailer weighs. Any thoughts in that vein?

How about rear coil vs leaf springs in the 2500 application?

We travel relatively lightly so hitch weight will be OK either way.

[TurnThePage]

ShinerBock wrote:

IdaD wrote:


I'm not sure where you got the idea that the 1500 and 2500 share the same rear coil setup - they're quite different.

Yeah, that is like saying the F150 and F250 share the same suspension just because they both use leaf springs.

I didn't say they used the same suspension. However, it would be factually accurate to say the F150 & F250 use the same type of rear suspension. I'm well aware of the differences, but they are, after all, both 5 link coil setups.

Here's a direct quote from Truck Trend: There are several notables for the 2014 Ram 2500. Taking cues from the 1500, standard five-link coil rear suspension has been added to the 2500 to deliver best-in-class ride.

http://www.trucktrend.com/news/1306-2014-ram-2500-five-link-coil-rear-suspension/

C'mon, it's just like the Chevy using the same transmission as the M1 Tank, right? LOL

[ShinerBock]

IdaD wrote:


I'm not sure where you got the idea that the 1500 and 2500 share the same rear coil setup - they're quite different.

Yeah, that is like saying the F150 and F250 share the same suspension just because they both use leaf springs.

[kw_00]

dedbird wrote:
I went thru the same dilemma and finally settled on a 2014 Chev 1500HD. Rated to 11,500lbs.

I tow a 31ft Jayco Eagle that weights in at 10,500 with no issues. Towed to Fl. return 3 times so far. No control issues, 11 mpg. Cruise at 60 mph.

I thought Chevy quit making those during the last generation. I had an 02 model with the 6.0 and it was labeled as 1500HD with 8 lugs. But side by side with a standard 2500 it was exactly the same. Now next to the 2500HD no it was not. So they still make those and designate them as 1500HD? Btw the old ones had an 8600GVWR just like the 2500'non HD. What is your GVWR then? Just curios thanks

[IdaD]

TurnThePage wrote:
BenK, I agree P rated tires aren't ideal for loads or towing, but I have had good luck with them on my half ton trucks as long as they were aired to their max. Most people probably skip that step if they are only occasionally hauling something. The 5 link rear suspension on the Ram is very solid otherwise, and is in fact used on their 3/4 ton trucks too.

I'm not sure where you got the idea that the 1500 and 2500 share the same rear coil setup - they're quite different.

[TurnThePage]

BenK, I agree P rated tires aren't ideal for loads or towing, but I have had good luck with them on my half ton trucks as long as they were aired to their max. Most people probably skip that step if they are only occasionally hauling something. The 5 link rear suspension on the Ram is very solid otherwise, and is in fact used on their 3/4 ton trucks too.

[HuckFinn410]

Grit dog wrote:
^Meh, not out of context. The person who posted it said most people won’t notice the difference between how a 1/2 ton and HD ride. I don’t believe that many would not notice it, seriously, it’s not even close.
Not flaming but do you disageee that anyone who couldn’t tell what type of truck they’re driving would be qualified to pilot a long heavy combination vehicle?
I’ve seen people that likely wouldn’t know the difference. They also don’t drive very well.
Sorry if you took it as a personal affront.

I don't disagree with the importance of using the right tool for the job. I also see scores of overloaded 1/2 tons on the roads. Scary.

It's not a big deal. I just kinda woke up on the wrong side of the bed today. One of those nights when I slept "like the dead" and woke up feeling like a zombie. I just thought that you might be focusing on the wrong thing. No big deal. Peace....

[Grit_dog]

^Meh, not out of context. The person who posted it said most people won’t notice the difference between how a 1/2 ton and HD ride. I don’t believe that many would not notice it, seriously, it’s not even close.
Not flaming but do you disageee that anyone who couldn’t tell what type of truck they’re driving would be qualified to pilot a long heavy combination vehicle?
I’ve seen people that likely wouldn’t know the difference. They also don’t drive very well.
Sorry if you took it as a personal affront.

[HuckFinn410]

Grit dog wrote:
^ What Shiner said.
On another note, anyone who “won’t see the differences” in how a 1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton rides and handles (any brand) probably isn’t observant enough to be towing a traielr!

Grit Dog....
capturing this particular statement, completely out of context and irrelevant to the OP's post, is unwarranted and reflects poorly on you. Sorry to say that.....just today was the day when flamers like you got to me.

Out.

[dedbird]

I went thru the same dilemma and finally settled on a 2014 Chev 1500HD. Rated to 11,500lbs.

I tow a 31ft Jayco Eagle that weights in at 10,500 with no issues. Towed to Fl. return 3 times so far. No control issues, 11 mpg. Cruise at 60 mph.

[BenK]

TurnThePage wrote:
snip...

Define "wallowing" and "fully loaded". My half ton admittedly came with a very forgiving suspension. It's soft. Rides great empty. REALLY great empty. It does squat under load. But there is NO WALLOWING. It remains right where it's supposed to with no wagging or other squirming. It's simply squatting.

snip....

Will try to explain...but...it is like trying to explain sex to a virgin...

'P' class tires the OEM's outfit all of their 'half ton' (except for the fake half ton, which has higher class tires) with 'P' class tires. Higher class TV's has 'LT' class tires and many recommend going that way for half tons...noodle the why of that after reading the below...

Passenger tires and RMA recommends (really a mandate) that whenever 'P' class tires are mounted on full sized pickup trucks (SUV's derived from pickups too)...they must be de-rated a mine of 9% in their weight carry rating.

That has 'ride quality' high on the 'have to have' list for most half ton owners.

With that 'ride quality' those 'P' class tires will 'roll over' during hard cornering/maneuvering....or when loaded close to, at or over their weight rating...That is the main cause of that 'wallowing' am referring to

Other issue (there are more, but will keep it simple here) is that the slip angle is typically higher on a narrow rim width. Of which most OEMs choose to do...except for their 'performance' optioned Pickup/SUV. This part of that 'wallowing' thing. A fast left/right/left/right type of maneuver will have those 'P' class tires not keep up...PLUS rolling over the sidewalls...but mushy response (wallowing)

The lower rated springs (mainly rear axle) will be "soft" and allow the vehicle to move around (another wallowing thing). Part of the half ton'er complaint of harsh ride quality on higher class TVs

My 1980 half ton Silverado wallows a bit with 33/12.5R15LT load range C tires. KYB MonoMax shocks. 1 ton coil helper springs. It wallows when loaded up with firewood, woodpellets, dirt, gravel, sod, etc...but not as much before all of those 'upgrades' were made. Dad's very small grocery/butcher shop truck and he didn't want anything to do with reducing the ride quality...but...allowed those 1 ton coil helpers...as the guys (brother & stock clerks) working there always loaded it up (down to the bump stops) when going to the produce market, slaughter house, etc

[ShinerBock]

TurnThePage wrote:

ShinerBock wrote:

TurnThePage wrote:
So, once again, if the OP is talking about the NEW Ram 1500s, as in 2019 model year, which are just becoming available, their payload has been improved. And they now also sport 6 lug axles just like everybody else.

The OP asked a question about 20 rims being the reason behind the low payload numbers of a non-2019 truck.

The OP also asked about new Rams. Having paid attention to half ton specs for a while, I'm pretty sure the 20 inch rims are no longer the lower defining limit.

His question about 20 inch rims was not quoting a 2019 spec, hence the reason why I stated 5 lug axle and linear rate coils being the limiting factor on the payload numbers he was referring to.

[APT]

Ram 2500 offers (higher rated) coil springs like the Ram 1500. With Ram half tons currently at 400-600 pounds less payload than similarly equipped GM/Ford, I would go for their 6.4L 3/4 ton.

[valhalla360]

I assume the OP is talking new trucks, so some thoughts:
- Any truck that meets the ratings will do fine towing. A 3/4 ton will tow nicely but with a loaded weight probably on the order of 7500lb it's likely not necessary.
- You probably don't need the different rear end as the newer transmissions have lots of gears, so they can mimic the towing rear end by selecting a slightly deeper gear ratio.
- Look at the ratings of the specific truck. 1/2 ton trucks can have wildly different towing and cargo ratings.

Big question is how much towing vs around town driving will you do? Assuming it's typical 80-95% not towing, go for the best MPG truck that meets the tow ratings.

[4x4ord]

I know nothing about the Ram 1500 but I do know you can buy 1500's with higher payloads than some 2500's. I wouldn't consider buying a 2500 for anything. Think either 1/2 ton or 1 ton srw. The 1/2 tons I have riden in have a far superior ride to a 2500/3500. The gearing of your 1996 truck should have absolutely nothing to do with selecting the rear axle ratio for a new truck. The proper gearing is determined by considering the power band of the engine your choosing; the gear ratios in the transmission; the type of use the truck will see and the weight of the trailer. Look at the towing guide of the truck you're buying and select the lowest numerical ratio recomended by the engineers for your application.