So lets say you need to bring one side up 3-4 inches

[DinTulsa]

Just picked up our first TT. We will mostly be rving on sites that are level concrete pads that won't require much more that a 1" block on the side with 3 slides to help level it out. But lets say we find ourselves in a spot that is significantly lower on one side. How do you bring the trailer up if you have a series of 1 foot blocks, or plastic pads, without causing the top blocks to kick out as you try to climb up them. I have considered carrying 1 ft. sections of 1x8, 2x8 and if I needed more than a couple of inches grab a set of Anderson levelers for up to 4 inches.

[RedRocket204]

SoundGuy wrote:

RedRocket204 wrote:
If you are a bit OCD about getting the TT completely level, I've noticed at times adding a block to a side that is ~ 1" lower can then make it higher than the other side, throwing off level again. I've found you can offset the slightly off level by only raising 1 of the 2 axles to get a completely side to side level trailer.

Which is why my Wood / Lynx system includes a non-Lynx base I can use on the high side for fine tuning side-to-side level. OCD? ... maybe, but if I can do it this easily, why not? As for elevating just one tire on the low side that's not something I would do as it places much more force on the elevated axle vs the non-elevated axle, same as using a ramp ... IMO a poor idea.

There is suspension for a reason and I seriously doubt there would be enough measurable increase in force on either axle to make a difference... yes, that is an assumption but your assessment is also an assumption. If the axles were that weak, I think there would be much bigger issues.

[ttarborists]

The Andersen's also have a 3 year warranty and a 4.6 out of 5 satisfaction rating out of hundreds of responders. They are so easy to use that if mine broke I would definitely get them again.

[ralph_day]

I have used Anderson levelers and wood. Anderson's all the way! Even for just a little more height on one side they're great. For more height than they can give I have 2x10's for them to sit on. Fast and easy to use and pack away.

Just don't drive up on them using 2 feet (brake and gas pedals). On sand I locked the trailer brakes and just buldozed with the Anderson's for a foot or so. Whoops. Not sure what they'd be like on a really heavy rig. Mine's only 2600pounds empty.

Ralph

[hohenwald48]

The Andersons do get scuffed from stones but so what. I've been using them for over a year now and haven't experienced any cracking, chipping or breakage. I did have a problem with them sliding once on wet grass.

Who knows why there are negative comments on Amazon about them. I think you could look for gold on Amazon and someone would give it a negative review. I sometimes think folks post comments/reviews on Amazon just to get published and get a little attention. I've never talked with anyone who has had them break or crack.

I have seen lot's of broken Lynx levelers in CG dumpsters.

[SoundGuy]

RedRocket204 wrote:
If you are a bit OCD about getting the TT completely level, I've noticed at times adding a block to a side that is ~ 1" lower can then make it higher than the other side, throwing off level again. I've found you can offset the slightly off level by only raising 1 of the 2 axles to get a completely side to side level trailer.

Which is why my Wood / Lynx system includes a non-Lynx base I can use on the high side for fine tuning side-to-side level. OCD? ... maybe, but if I can do it this easily, why not? As for elevating just one tire on the low side that's not something I would do as it places much more force on the elevated axle vs the non-elevated axle, same as using a ramp ... IMO a poor idea.

[myredracer]

We use the yellow plastic "lego blocks" from CW like in the 1st photo (not ours). Have 3 packs of them. They are lightweight and take up little space in a pass-through compartment. They are an inch thick and you just stack them up as needed. For tandem axles you just stretch out the buildup. Sometimes I've been 1/2 way between another layer and have simply placed an extra layer under one wheel only.

The only thing I don't like about the plastic blocks is that they can get damaged on sharp rocks on a site. Have had to toss maybe 3 of them in over 4 years so not a big deal.

The lego blocks also are useful for other things too like under jacks, leveling a picnic table or BBQ and even making up a step at the bottom of your entry stairs if on a really sloping site.

Personally, having to use bulky cumbersome chunks of wood and store them somewhere would bother me. Another option is Anderson levelers as in the 2nd photo but they're awfully expensive for what they are plus are also susceptible to damage from sharp stones.

[RedRocket204]

One thing I didn't see mentioned...

If you are a bit OCD about getting the TT completely level, I've noticed at times adding a block to a side that is ~ 1" lower can then make it higher than the other side, throwing off level again. I've found you can offset the slightly off level by only raising 1 of the 2 axles to get a completely side to side level trailer. Removing dirt/gravel is the other way which has already been mentioned.

I know some will say they don't worry about 1/2 - 1 inch off level...

[RCMAN46]

wrvond wrote:
I use the Anderson levels even if it is an inch or so. They are easier to use than any wood leveler ever designed, and they function as a wheel chock as well.

I just looked at the reviews on Amazon for the Anderson levelers.

The most common problem was they break after some use.

Suggest checking out the comments on Amazon before spending $100 for a pair.

[rbpru]

I carry 5 foot 2x12 and 1x8 in the bed. If three inches is not enough we sit crooked or we will move.

[ttarborists]

RVcircus wrote:
I use Andersen levelers because they're easy and light. They can level from 1/"-4".

I use the Anderson levelers also. Nothing else can really compare for ease of use and portability.

[Chuck_thehammer]

Need-A-Vacation wrote:
<> I do need to replace some boards next season due to age and cracking,
<<< Clip >>>
.

to prevent or repair cracks in 2x6 or larger..
I use 3/8 all thread rod... drill thru and install nuts on each end..

every 2 feet of length .. I have done several.. just a few dollars.

boards lasts for years.

[24fb_freedom]

If possible when I'm leveling my rig I dig a couple holes to drop either side of rig,works for us since we do a lot of boondocking in the desert

[RCMAN46]

I hope this is not a duplicate.

My prodigy P3 has a feature to disable the trailer brakes while backing.

If yours does not disconnect the 7 way while backing to help prevent kicking the blocks out.

[temccarthy1]

Dcarner wrote:
Just picked up our first TT. We will mostly be rving on sites that are level concrete pads that won't require much more that a 1" block on the side with 3 slides to help level it out. But lets say we find ourselves in a spot that is significantly lower on one side. How do you bring the trailer up if you have a series of 1 foot blocks, or plastic pads, without causing the top blocks to kick out as you try to climb up them. I have considered carrying 1 ft. sections of 1x8, 2x8 and if I needed more than a couple of inches grab a set of Anderson levelers for up to 4 inches.

Buy 2 sets of (10) Lynx leveling blocks and you can build a ramp up to 3 blocks high for each axle ( total 6)and still have plenty left for under your corner stabilizers and tongue jack.. Got them on Amazon, comes in carrying bag-- bought 2 sets.. Work great and lightweight compared to carrying wood!

[RVcircus]

I use Andersen levelers because they're easy and light. They can level from 1/"-4".