2013 Traverse - Looking to set up to tow 4 down

[beagles7278]

I have a 2013 Traverse FWD that I would like to set up to tow 4 down. Looking for experiences people have had doing this to their same vehicle. How much should I expect to spend? Not sure yet if I will do myself or pay someone to do it. Thanks in advance.

[willald]

mowermech wrote:
you could go to NSA and get the Ready Brute integrated towbar/braking system. for under $2000, get the towbar brackets, and be much better off, IMO....

..This is what I would highly, highly recommend. Can actually be purchased for MUCH less than $2000, current price on NSA's web site is $1275. You can order it from hitchsource.com HERE for even less than that ($1175), and free shipping is included. 🙂

IMO you just can't beat getting a tow bar AND braking system for that $$. With any separate tow bar and 'electronic box' type brake system, you'll easily pay over $1000 more than that, total. And thats without even getting into how much better and more reliable the Readybrake system is over so many other options.

BUT, as bumpyroad said, READ the Owners Manual, and FOLLOW the instructions contained therein! If the book says DON'T TOW IT, you are on your own!
Good luck.

...Its already been established that the vehicle in question (Chevy Traverse) IS flat-towable, per the manufacturer. We can stop 'preaching' (beating the dead horse) about the owners manual now, really. 🙂

[mowermech]

lanerd wrote:
Well, let's see. To start off, you'll need a base plate ($350), Tow bar ($900), Light kit ($50), and a supplemental brake system ($1000). Labor to install all of the above (~$1000).

Roadmaster and Blue Ox are probably the two favorite brands here for the base plate and tow bar. Supplemental brake systems can go from a box in the floor board (Brake Buddy) to a built in system on the tow bar (Ready Brake), to systems that use the air from the motor home (Air Force One) and also those that have small vacuum pumps that use the toad's power brake system (US Gear's Unified)....and a multitude of others.

All can be installed by yourself if you can read instructions, have a few tools, and have the time to spare.

Hope this is what you were looking for.

Ron

Or, you could go to NSA and get the Ready Brute integrated towbar/braking system. for under $2000, get the towbar brackets, and be much better off, IMO. The lights can be hooked up for less than $100.
Or, you can get the Ready Brake from NSA that can be used with ANY towbar, then go to Walmart and get a Reese fixed arm adjustable width towbar for about $165. Yes, it is "inconvenient", but it does the same job as the very expensive towbars! I used one on Jeeps for years.
Your options are nearly limitless. Have fun shopping.
BUT, as bumpyroad said, READ the Owners Manual, and FOLLOW the instructions contained therein! If the book says DON'T TOW IT, you are on your own!
Good luck.

[jerseyjim]

Figure a ball park of $1000. IMO, go for the BlueOx baseplate with the removeable tabs.
I use a RoadMaster telescoping towbar. 5000 pound max. If I were buying new, I would investigate the "ReadyBrake" towbar. Really interesting. I would choose the "ReadyBrake" over all the other systems that require battery power and, like the above post from CA TRAVELER can give you problems you don't need.
You can get the brake light/rear running light diode kit or go for the magnetic lights. I've used both with no problems.

But you FIRST must read the OWNERS MANUAL for your car. If it says you can tow 4-down...go for it. If it says you cannot tow four down, you're done.

g'luck!

[Biocruiser]

Another vote for the Ready Brute Elite. We've traveled over 10K miles over the last 10 months and I found the Ready Brute to be very easy to use. The braking system works flawlessly once it is properly adjusted. I added a turnbuckle to the brake cable to aid in adjustment, and I also have a light on my dash which shows when the toad is braking. I also added a Toad-charge which was required to keep the battery charged.

I have a Demco baseplate which works well with the Edge. I would also consider Roadmaster next time depending on what Toad I have. We used a quality body shop to install the baseplate and lighting kit and they did a great job.

[willald]

beagles7278 wrote:
Thanks again for all the responses, still researching my options. Looking at the Ready Brute Elite tow bar, looks like I get the tow bar plus brake system in one. Anybody have this?

Yep, thats what I have, and IMO it just can't be beat. Very simple, works great, and costs about half overall what you'd pay for any other separate tow bar and braking system.

You'll find almost nothing but glowing reviews on here, for the Readybrake/ReadyBrute system.

[conmoto]

I have the Blue Ox Patriot now and I believe the next system I get will be the Ready Brute. I have read many good things about that set-up. Good luck!

[beagles7278]

Thanks again for all the responses, still researching my options. Looking at the Ready Brute Elite tow bar, looks like I get the tow bar plus brake system in one. Anybody have this?

[Nvr2loud]

The Traverse, Acadia, Enclave, and Outlook are all designed for 4 wheel down towing, in both FWD and AWD versions.

Consult the owners manual under towing the vehicle to find out more.

[CA_Traveler]

OP My input, research Roadmaster, Blue Ox and Ready Brake. What I did below:

1. I would not have a tow bar that is not adjustable for hookup. It's a pain to align it for hookup. Nor would I have a vehicle mounted tow bar as I don't want to have to remove it or drive around with it on front of the car.
2. My 04 tow bar was a RM Falcon 2 and I quickly learned that it easily binds for unhitching. I learned to mostly avoid the binding but eventually upgrade to the Falcon All Terrain.
3. In 04 I got the RM box brake. As we began traveling more it became an increasing pain to install/uninstall.
4. Hookups are easier with my RM Invsibrake. There is absolutely nothing to do to activate the Invsibrake, it's completely automatic.


My advice is to consult your crystal ball, figure out what type of towing you will be doing then buying equipment to meet that need including long term. That may not be the cheapest choice.

A lot of people like the Ready Brake. It's cheap and works well from all accounts.

I also upgraded from the 4 wire cable for the lights to a 6 wire cable. The 5th wire is a battery charging line. The 6th wire connects the toad brake lights to a light on the MH dash. I know when the toad brakes are applied.

After connecting the car DW checks the turn signals and brake lights for both vehicles before we travel. Apparently most folks don't check. We use handheld radios for this task. These are the same radios I use to find DW when she gets lost in a big box store. :B

Some history: Our 04 CRV had a failed battery in 04 and 05 both on the road and replaced under warranty. Current battery is on year 8. Left the key on one night while connected to the MH. First think I did next morning was to put the car in park. BIG OOPS as the car is now locked in park, cannot shift to neutral since the battery was dead. And the jumper cables would not reach the car. 😞

[2gypsies1]

Here's some info on the Traverse:

http://www.royrobinsonrv.com/images/pdf/DinghyGuide2013.pdf

[PandK]

We own a 2013 Traverse and have towed it about 6000 miles over the past year - no issues. You do need to follow the instructions in the owners manual and not exceed 65 MPH as directed in the owners manual.
Have a Blue Ox base plate self installed with no issues. Also added a Ready Brake because of the weight of the Traverse, works very well. Lost about 1 MPG when towing.
Found a lot helpful information on some of the Traverse forums on the web. That would be another excellent source of information.

Hope this helps.

[mowermech]

willald wrote:
Note to self: Any time Bumpy posts on here asking for advice or real world experience on any topic, respond to him that he should just look in the manual. Apparently owner's manuals now have everything one could possibly need. 🙂

Will

YES, when it comes to Recreational Towing, the Owners Manual often DOES have the necessary information that the vehicles owner MUST know before spending a lot of money, then ruining the transmission!
This time, I agree with bumpy (that's a shock). The FIRST step should be to read the Owners Manual and find out what the manufacturer says about towing. If the book says NO, then the second step is to see what Remco offers to modify the vehicle, or get a different vehicle (the different vehicle would be my choice), or perhaps get a dolly (IF the vehicle can be dolly towed).
If a lube pump or driveshaft disconnect can be added to make the vehicle towable, about $1000 can be added to the above mentioned costs.

[willald]

Note to self: Any time Bumpy posts on here asking for advice or real world experience on any topic, respond to him that he should just look in the manual. Apparently owner's manuals now have everything one could possibly need. 🙂

Will

[tyoungs]

Just had my 2014 Enclave (sister ship to the Traverse) set-up with a Roadmaster base plate at a great little place in Fowlerville - they ordered the base plate and then called me when they got it in, and did the install in a couple of hours. Had them run the wiring harness that I already had installed and the breakaway switch while they had the front fascia off.
Total for the job $814 including Mi tax

The place is called Camper parts and RV repair - Doug is the owner, good guy. Fair prices and does good work. This is the 4th vehicle I have had them set up and never have had any problems.