Travel trailer in snow- Break controler setting

[maddawg46]

If you don't have chains, and you get caught in the snow, is it better to lower your brake control setting? I would think you would want less breaking in the rear if there is snow on the road.

[blt2ski]

Being as the OP is in Ca, I believe his chain up requirements are a lot like here in Wa, OR and ID as to three states I have looked up the requirements on. If he or anyone gets caught in a mtn/snow area with out chains, be prepared to lighted your wallet with a ticket.

I like chains on both front wheels of a dual axel trailer personally. That is me.

I also prefer the CHAIN chains vs cables when towing too. UNLESS I need chains on the FA and RA, the cables go on the front tires. Having them along also gives me the extra chain(s) that are required by law too.

I personally did not change setting on brake controller(s) used over 15 yrs towing a trailer in the snow to ski resorts, nor did I change the bar links etc.

Marty

[BenK]

IMHO...a bit clarification on how a P2/P3 works...vs IBC

First, if you are worried about slippery conditions enough to consider
dropping the settings...you are going too fast, following too close
and are at the point where you should consider chains on BOTH TV & trailer

Chains should go on the REAR axle on rear wheel drive vehicles and on
the front of front wheel drive (not a good place but the only choice)

A P2/P3 is an inertia based controller. Meaning it will sense deceleration
and then meter out power to the trailer brakes according to how fast
you are decelerating or not

Then there is a 'boost' function, which is a preset level of power
dialed in by the driver. This is the min level of power the controller
will send to the trail when the brake pedal switch is initiated

On many vehicles, the brake pedal switch will initiate BEFORE there is
any TV MC Hydraulic PSI developed....meaning that a P2/P3 can be braking
the trailer BEFORE an IBC...unless that IBC has a boost function


As the TV/Trailer slows down...the P2/P3 will continue to supply power
to the trailer and increasing if the rate of deceleration continues


With a IBC, the only way the trailer will get more power is for the
driver to increase the brake pedal pressure, which will increase the
MC's PSI

Back on driving in slippery conditions...first is slow down second
is to leave extra braking room to the vehicle in front

Snow or MX tires a must if this is going to be a regular occurrence.
More aggressive treads if going to be severe conditions, but the
down side is noise and lower tread life

I have chains for all of my vehicles, except for the Odyssey, which
are cables. Re-enforced chains are the only kind I'll purchase, but
they need plenty of wheel well room

Also, do NOT buy the rubber band tensioner's. I like steel coiled
springs, but again they need lots of wheel well room

Each of my vehicles has a 5 gallon plastic bucket holding my chain kit

Chains, length of plastic hall runner or an old rubber matt to kneel
on. Gloves (both vinyl and thick mechanics) . Tie wraps. Can of WD40. etc

The lid is one of those that is turns the bucket into a short stool
to sit on.

Plastic bag to keep the 'stuff' from the chains, as the chains going
back in are dirty with mud, slush, etc

[rhagfo]

Bedlam wrote:

GordonThree wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
Just an FYI towing an pass in the left coast in winter without chains, you may be looking at ticket. My TV and 5er both have chains year round, no need to hunt down in the fall.

Tell me more about chains on the trailer? I've seen this mentioned on this forum several times, but find no reference to it "on the web" other than chaining huge commercial tractor-trailers.

On the west coast, you typically have to have one braking axle wheel chained (sometimes called a drag chain). This is so that when you apply tow vehicle brakes, the trailer has sufficient grip to not lock up the braking axle and have the trailer attempt to pass or push you. I carry a set of chains for the tow vehicle and set of cables for my trailer. Traveling mountain passes in my area requires you carry chains November 1st through April 1st.

WA - http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/docs/cvd/chainbw.pdf
OR - https://tripcheck.com/Pages/minimum-chain-requirements.asp

Glad I read all responses after the question, :B

Bedlam, thanks for the great answer. I am also glad to hear that I am not the only one to carry my tire chains year round.

That and following distance!!

[carringb]

I don't change my controllers settings. It's a prodigy p3 which is inertia based. So lowing in snow takes longer, so that already lessens brake output. If anything I sometimes give the trailer a little override braking if needed.

[4X4Dodger]

Driving in snow is not that difficult. Tractor trailers do it all the time, all winter, day and night. Your rig is basically just a tiny tractor trailer.

If you know how to drive on ice and snow WELL already it will be a no brainer.

Limiting your forward momentum is the key and staying OFF the brakes. DO NOT use an engine brake.

Now most newer commercial trailers come with anti lock brakes. This is what the RV's are missing.

If you are really worried I would lower your brake controller ONE setting only. Or move it from Heavy Trailer to Light trailer if yours has that option.

Then DRIVE the trailer, dont let it drive you.

As for trailer chains all you need to do is chain one axle. But make sure they are TIGHT or they will loosen and tear up the wheel wells.

[Bedlam]

GordonThree wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
Just an FYI towing an pass in the left coast in winter without chains, you may be looking at ticket. My TV and 5er both have chains year round, no need to hunt down in the fall.

Tell me more about chains on the trailer? I've seen this mentioned on this forum several times, but find no reference to it "on the web" other than chaining huge commercial tractor-trailers.

On the west coast, you typically have to have one braking axle wheel chained (sometimes called a drag chain). This is so that when you apply tow vehicle brakes, the trailer has sufficient grip to not lock up the braking axle and have the trailer attempt to pass or push you. I carry a set of chains for the tow vehicle and set of cables for my trailer. Traveling mountain passes in my area requires you carry chains November 1st through April 1st.

WA - http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/docs/cvd/chainbw.pdf
OR - https://tripcheck.com/Pages/minimum-chain-requirements.asp

[RCMAN46]

If you are towing a trailer on ice or snow I would not recommend downshifting to slow down. I would even think you would want to disengage an engine brake in such a situation.

With a controller such as the Prodigy I would also remove brake boost.

I towed in a couple inches of very heavy snow once but never again. I am retired so if such a situation were to happen again I will spend how many nights required in the closest Motel.

As for chains I believe they are required in most of the Western states both on the TV and trailer.

[shum02]

I tow in snow a lot here in Ontario going winter camping. Have the Ford integrated controller and leave it on the same setting all the time. Never had issue with rig passing me, jackknifing or anything else.

As usual drive for conditions and stay OFF the brakes as much as possible. Chains are not an option unless in Northern Ontario.

[GordonThree]

rhagfo wrote:
Just an FYI towing an pass in the left coast in winter without chains, you may be looking at ticket. My TV and 5er both have chains year round, no need to hunt down in the fall.

Tell me more about chains on the trailer? I've seen this mentioned on this forum several times, but find no reference to it "on the web" other than chaining huge commercial tractor-trailers.

[WyoTraveler]

I leave everything the same and slow down. The majority of the time you won't need your brakes unless you are driving too fast for conditions. I down shift even on flat roadways if I'm not slowing fast enough.

[Bedlam]

Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a real brake controller, like the factory controllers, your foot determines braking power. You determine how much braking is needed.

An aftermarket controller will not be controlled by the driver. Brakes lights turn on a bit of braking. Whatever else happens as you attempt to stop is anyone's guess.

I have disagree with the aftermarket description. You can have time or inertia based controllers on modern vehicles. Older vehicles could actually tie into the hydraulic lines.

Given a choice, I prefer the OEM controllers that modify output based on ABS and stability input from the tow vehicle (my last two were OEM), but there are some good inertia controllers for those that did not buy a tow vehicle with the OEM option.

[Bedlam]

I would rather have all the wheels attempting to brake rather than just the tow vehicle, so the controller should be set the same or slightly higher in slick conditions to allow the rear to drag more and straighten things out. If you're locking up the trailer, you are driving too fast or braking too hard. This contradicts the previous post but you need to find what works for your driving style and terrain.

I would disconnect sway control on your hitch in slick weather so the trailer tracks the vehicle movement better instead of fighting it. Since you will not be going fast, there is no worry about sway until the conditions are better and your speed increases.

[BB_TX]

If you must tow in ice or snow without chains, lower the trailer brake setting. You do not want the trailer brakes to lock up. A sliding tire has much less traction than a rolling tire. And sliding trailer tires is a good way to have the trailer try to pass you.

[Lynnmor]

If you have a real brake controller, like the factory controllers, your foot determines braking power. You determine how much braking is needed.

An aftermarket controller will not be controlled by the driver. Brakes lights turn on a bit of braking. Whatever else happens as you attempt to stop is anyone's guess.