TRAILER ROLLED!!!

[nwbearcat1998]

Hello,

I had the scare of my life this past weekend. We got lost on the way to the campground and had an issue filling up the fresh water tank (didn't have the new drain valve installed).

In a hurry, I setup the the Camco Wheel Stop and the stabilizer jacks. (I put the wood under the jacks on the side instead of flat).
On one side or the other I always use at least one of the orange "Lynx Levelers" to level the TT side to side but since it raises the tires off the pavement I do not put a chock under those tires since it would rest against the lynx leveler and not the tire itself.

While relaxing in the TT with my wife and 18mo son, the trailer MOVED SIX FEET!! My F150 was parked at an angle to the trailer so thankfully it stopped us from traveling any further. The trailer had zero damage but the truck had a little more
Thankfully no one was hurt and the truck can be repaired easily. The rest of the weekend went much smoother. It will be a trip we will never forget though!!!

Question for everyone is what DO YOU USE for leveling the trailer left/right and then ALSO CHOCK the wheel on the side that is raised???

Thanks!!

[gaymeadowsman]

Bigbird65 wrote:
I never had a problem using Andersen levelers and home brew chocks. Use the chocks on both sides of the trailer.

We use this set up also. I also go back after about 3 hours and retighten the chocks after the tire cool down.

[Bigbird65]

~DJ~ wrote:


I also have home made chocks similar to BigBird65 and experienced the same as
Soundguy for loosening up as the tires cool. I check them after about an hour after initial installation and they are usually hanging there loose doing absolutely nothing!!

I have not been checking mine. That is a very good idea and I will start doing that.

[Tvov]

Learn something new every day. They maybe should think about taking the word "chock" out of the name if those are not designed to be used as wheel chocks. That's what I always thought they were for.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
... but since my current trailer doesn't allow sufficient room between adjacent tires for the BAL Standard Tire Chock I instead use rubber chocks secured in position with hardwood spacers ...

Either system works perfectly and will absolutely prevent the kind of event (and damage) the OP has described.

nwbearcat1998 wrote:
What's the reason for the hardwood spacer?? It needed??

Think about it for a moment and the answer should be obvious. :W

Any chock sitting on it's own can slip out of position, especially a lightweight plastic chock sitting on plastic Lynx Levelers, and allow the trailer to shift. :E Using heavy rubber chocks helps but doesn't totally eliminate the chance of slippage. Norco's BAL Standard Tire Locking Chock solves that problem entirely because it consists of two metal chocks connected together by an adjustable threaded metal rod which allows the two chocks to be adjusted so they're sitting snugly against each tire. As I said earlier, if the BAL chocks would fit between the tires on my current Coachmen as they easily did with our previous KZ Spree I'd still be using them but because they don't I've simply emulated the design objective by using rubber chocks secured with a hardwood spacer. In use, any site slope forces one tire against it's chock but rather than potentially causing it to slip out of position that force is transferred to the spacer, then to the adjacent chock, and finally to the other tire, completely eliminating any chance of slippage, just as is the case with the BAL Standard Tire Locking Chock. Proof is in the pudding - several seasons of use have now proven that regardless of site slope it's impossible for my trailer to shift even in the slightest. :B

[ZeeLet50]

When I install my rubber chocks, i "load" them by have DW place them behind both rear wheels. Them I put the TV in reverse and back into them, then while holding the brake, DW puts chocks on front side. This gives a good "wedge" effect and will keep them tight after tires cool and shrink. I need to get a pair of x-chocks to control some of the other movement trailer experiences.

[_DJ_1]

SoundGuy wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Hard pressed to see it allowing trailer to roll IF properly set between tires and TIGHT.

nwbearcat1998 wrote:
I agree with the statement of i was in a hurry and did not properly tighten them.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
So it really was an 'Operator Error' vs 'Equipment Failure'

I'd disagree with you both and speculate (as obviously I have to since I wasn't there :W ) that those Camco chocks were initially tightened sufficiently. The "Operator Error" here is not acknowledging that tires shrink in diameter as they cool, in which case those Camco chocks that were originally tight loosened sufficiently that they let go and allowed the trailer to shift. It's not rocket science ... to actually secure the trailer use chocks that don't depend on maintaining adequate tension between two adjacent tires and you'll never have this problem again.

I also have home made chocks similar to BigBird65 and experienced the same as
Soundguy for loosening up as the tires cool. I check them after about an hour after initial installation and they are usually hanging there loose doing absolutely nothing!!

[Cocky_Camper]

We use 2X4's to level side to side. We then put wheel chocks on front and back of both sides. We hammer the chocks in to make make sure they are in place and it helps to reduce movement in the camper.

[nwbearcat1998]

SoundGuy wrote:


... but since my current trailer doesn't allow sufficient room between adjacent tires for the BAL Standard Tire Chock I instead use rubber chocks secured in position with hardwood spacers ...



Either system works perfectly and will absolutely prevent the kind of event (and damage) the OP has described.

What's the reason for the hardwood spacer?? It needed??

[SoCalDesertRid1]

In that situation, I would just leave the trailer hooked up to the truck. The truck will keep it from moving.

[JIMNLIN]

Years back we some times camped in areas where one side of the trailer had to be ramped up maybe 6"-10" and the other sitting on the ground. Blocks of any kind behind the tires wouldn't stay in place so the 5er would roll of the ramp.
I fixed that with adjustable chocks between the tires on both sides. Left the wheel chocks in the trailer shed.

I bumped the 5er hitch real hard one time with the wife inside getting things ready to go home. One side of the trailer was up on blocks enough that the same side of the truck had to be blocked also. It was muddy. The trucks rear tires slipped off the ramp just as the pin started in the hitch. The trailer spun around about 2'. The wife flew out the door squackin'. Thats when she decided I was spend some bucks on a pair of adjustable tire chocks. That was in the early '90s and I forget the brand name.
I still use them with or with out the trailer being ramped.

[Terryallan]

In truth. the operator error part was not using wheel chocks. Always chock the tires, and THEN place the camcos between for stabilization. that is all they are designed to do. not keep it from rolling, as you found out.

[SoundGuy]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Hard pressed to see it allowing trailer to roll IF properly set between tires and TIGHT.

nwbearcat1998 wrote:
I agree with the statement of i was in a hurry and did not properly tighten them.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
So it really was an 'Operator Error' vs 'Equipment Failure'

I'd disagree with you both and speculate (as obviously I have to since I wasn't there :W ) that those Camco chocks were initially tightened sufficiently. The "Operator Error" here is not acknowledging that tires shrink in diameter as they cool, in which case those Camco chocks that were originally tight loosened sufficiently that they let go and allowed the trailer to shift. It's not rocket science ... to actually secure the trailer use chocks that don't depend on maintaining adequate tension between two adjacent tires and you'll never have this problem again.

[Old-Biscuit]

nwbearcat1998 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


What kind if condition was the Camco Wheel Stop in after trailer rolled?

Was it bent up, twisted, stripped?

Otherwise are you sure that 'in a hurry' you actually tighten it?

Hard pressed to see it allowing trailer to roll IF properly set between tires and TIGHT.

No it was in perfect condition. I reused it the rest of he weekend along with chocks on both sides. I agree with the statement of i was in a hurry and did not properly tighten them.

So it really was an 'Operator Error' vs 'Equipment Failure'

[engine31]

I too use wheel chocks and blocks when leveling and I too have had that exact same scare it's pretty un-nerving to say the least. After my "roll" I always learned to "not" unhook the chains from my tow vehicle until all was settled in and chocked. glad to hear all came out for the best.

[SoundGuy]

Walaby wrote:
Which is better, or does it matter? Putting chocks on outside of both wheels, or inside of both wheels?

Chocks, especially plastic chocks, can easily slip out of position. I solved that by instead using heavy rubber chocks between the tires and prevent them from shifting with hardwood spacers. The adjustable BAL Standard Tire Locking Chock does the same thing, is more convenient, but won't fit between the tires on my current Coachmen, otherwise I'd still be using them.