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Should I run my heater?

BassinDmax
Explorer
Explorer
I live in the central valley of California where we experience relatively mild winters. Usually down to the low 40's high 30's is the coldest we'll get. I didn't winterize our trailer, but did drain all tanks and lines. My question is we were in the high 20's last night and its supposed to get colder tonight, should I run the heater on a low setting to insure no issues or not worry about it? The trailer is stored on the side of our house plugged in to keep the batteries charged.
Tim & Mary

22 REPLIES 22

BassinDmax
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all for the responses to my question. Confirms that this forum is full of great folks that are more then willing to offer their help and experience.

We got down to 27 last night so I ran the furnace set on 50. Went out this morning and everything in good shape. Looks like I'll need to repeat the next couple of nights and than we're back into the high 30's and 40's.

Lot of folk's recommended to winterize, but with only having a handful of nights a year that dip this low I felt there would be some alternatives, hence my question on this forum.

Also had one post commenting on leaving the trailer plugged in all the time. I have a Magnum Inverter/Charger that maintains the batteries and doesn't just continually charge. Plus I have it programed to time connect, so it comes on from 12 midnight and disconnects at 4 am.

Again thanks for all the information and suggestions.
Tim & Mary

stetwood
Explorer
Explorer
Whatever you do, leave all the faucets open. Water expands when it freezes leaving them open leaves some room for expansion

salem
Explorer
Explorer
BassinDmax: I'm glad you asked that. I've been wondering the same thing. I drained all the water, tank, low point drains, etc. but forgot to drain the water heater. Thanks to olBombero for mentioning that.:)

Pogoil
Explorer
Explorer
I live in Oregon but used to live in Ca. I just got information off a boat forum about Ca. being the highest state for frozen block replacement in boats because it never gets cold enough to freeze in Ca.

Bought my first RV in Ca. 25 years ago, brought it home hooked up water and when I turned it on water came from everywhere. All the water lines were cracked from a freeze that winter. Little old lady that sold it to me had no idea as her husband had died that winter. That is how I started fixing my RVs.

Yes run your propane heater at 45-50 and do not leave electric heaters unattended cause you may burn your RV. and house down.

Pogoil.

Jayco-noslide
Explorer
Explorer
I feel that if it will be much under 30 for more than an hour, better safe than sorry.
Jayco-noslide

KampingKris
Explorer
Explorer
We are also in the central valley and have never winterized...
If the temps get low - we bring the rig home and plug it in. Right now, our motorhome is warm and toasting with the aquahot set at 45. Didn't want to chance it with that piece of expensive rv equipment. In a few days, it will be back around 34 or so and out of danger - so back to storage it will go.
And then, we'll be close to heading SOUTH! Can't wait!
KampingKris & FiremanSteve
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ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
BassinDmax wrote:
I live in the central valley of California where we experience relatively mild winters. Usually down to the low 40's high 30's is the coldest we'll get. I didn't winterize our trailer, but did drain all tanks and lines. My question is we were in the high 20's last night and its supposed to get colder tonight, should I run the heater on a low setting to insure no issues or not worry about it? The trailer is stored on the side of our house plugged in to keep the batteries charged.


Look at the locations of the posters who reply.

Yep, if you're in Illinois, Minnesota, Colorado or other areas subject to low temps and *serious* freezing, you need to winterize.

But - you're in CA - you know, the place they love to bash, LOL!

RVs in CA since 1970 - never drained the tanks or needed a heater during periods of storage.
"Winterize" just means a different camping season!.;)

Now - there are parts of CA that also get serious cold weather!
But, you know where they are - where we go to ski & snowboard - like the Sierras, Tahoe, etc.

You've drained the tanks - so you have that covered.
Pass on the "pink stuff" in the lines.
If it makes you feel better, pour some into the drains (sinks, etc.) where water will sit in the "P-traps".

A space heater is *NOT* "inherently dangerous" and for your peace of mind an electric heater on a low setting would be fine - and (IMO) a better choice over the furnace.

~

paulcardoza
Explorer
Explorer
OP ---

If it's going to drop into the mid 20's for a few hours, just set the thermostat @ 50 and relax. Use the furnace and not space heaters. It will keep everything protected that needs to be.
Paul & Sandra
Plymouth, MA
2014 Heartland Cyclone 4100 King

PawPaw_n_Gram
Explorer
Explorer
pompomgirl wrote:
Any comments on the method of just draining the water and blowing it out? We are supposed to be down to 18 this weekend.


Drain the low points and the fresh water tank first. Leave the faucets open to ensure the lines drain.

Turn the valves to bypass the water heater and drain the water heater - I remove the anode.

If you have a built-in water filter - remove it and make sure it is drained and the container empty - I then reattach the filter to ensure the lines are air-tight.

Attach a blow-out plug and set the air compressor PSI to no more than 45 PSI.

I blow out cold first - opening each faucet in turn. Then hot. It goes faster with two people.

Take off the blowout plug - but leave all faucets open.

Put enough RV antifreeze in each P-trap to ensure the fresh water has washed out - and to get enough into the tank to dilute any water in the grey tank. Don't forget the shower/ tub drain.

Put enough RV antifreeze in the toilet to ensure that the black tank water is diluted - and enough to ensure the RV antifreeze goes down to the dump valves.

I also go to the water heater bypass valves and turn all of them to a 45 degree angle to ensure no water is trapped in that small plastic ball. I've seen those type valves break internally.

Sounds extensive and lengthy - but really takes about 20-30 minutes the first time, and down to 10-15 minutes after doing it a couple times.
Full-Time 2014 - ????

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B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
Be sure you have drained your water heater

B.O.
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pompomgirl
Explorer
Explorer
Any comments on the method of just draining the water and blowing it out? We are supposed to be down to 18 this weekend.

shadows4
Explorer III
Explorer III
BobR wrote:
skipnchar wrote:
You can try that but it would be a LOT safer to invest the half hours time and winterize the RV.


Good luck / Skip


I agree with this statement. I store indoors heated. The building is about 20 minutes from my home. I blow out the lines during winter in case there is an electric or gas problem at the building. Not having to worry about everything being OK during a winter storm is priceless in my book. Winterize and no worries!


X2
I would at least blow out the lines.
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BobR
Explorer
Explorer
skipnchar wrote:
You can try that but it would be a LOT safer to invest the half hours time and winterize the RV.


Good luck / Skip


I agree with this statement. I store indoors heated. The building is about 20 minutes from my home. I blow out the lines during winter in case there is an electric or gas problem at the building. Not having to worry about everything being OK during a winter storm is priceless in my book. Winterize and no worries!

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
I agree with others. Space heaters are OK to temporarily extend the camping season, however I would not use space heaters all winter long to avoid winterizing. At some point take the time to use the pink stuff and winterize properly. It's foolproof all other methods are a gamble!
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