Dec-01-2013 02:04 PM
Dec-03-2013 09:24 PM
Dec-03-2013 08:39 AM
Dec-02-2013 05:09 PM
Dec-02-2013 03:39 PM
Dec-02-2013 08:33 AM
wilber1 wrote:. Perfect.
I've always used the same practice and never had a bearing problem. I tighten the nut down real snug while spinning the wheel in order to seat the bearings. I then back it off until it is loose, tighten it finger tight then back it off just until it lines up enough to install the cotter pin.
Dec-02-2013 08:26 AM
Dec-02-2013 07:47 AM
Dec-02-2013 06:29 AM
Tvov wrote:That basically is what preload means. Some instances will have a lot of preload, and you set the preload by measuring the amount of torque it takes to turn the shaft.
People keep saying "preload"... I take that means snugging the bearings so there is no play at all? Meaning they are tight?
Which I don't do... as all my trailer maintenance guides say, tighten the castle nut, but then back it off to fit the cotter pin in it. That allows for just a very small amount of "play" when you test the wheels.
Dec-02-2013 06:17 AM
Dec-02-2013 05:23 AM
Dec-02-2013 04:21 AM
ScottG wrote:Allworth wrote:
Obviously Scott is smarter than all the Engineers at Dexter put together!
"If" they wrote that (I have the procedure for both dexter and Alko and don't see anything that says bearings should be lose..) then not only am I right but every experienced mechanic, trade school and knowledgeable DIYer is smarter.
Howard, you've got the idea. Even "snug" is not lose ie has play.
Dec-02-2013 04:09 AM
MTPockets1 wrote:
I spent my entire career in the bearing business. 40 years; Including teaching proper bearing handling/maintenance. Most bearing failures are the result of poor maintenance that includes overgreasing, improper mounting, and contamination caused by improper installation. Do "not" preload your trailer bearings. Follow the procedure from Dexter as posted above. Preload will cause overheating which leads to premature wear and grease failure which leads to bearing failure. Also, pumping in all that grease just fills the cavity and could blow the seal. That extra grease does nothing but make a mess. If you notice, every instruction tells you to simply pack the bearing well with the proper grade of grease. That's all that is needed to provide thousands of miles of service. The bearing actually purges the excess grease in the first few moments of operation. Boat trailers recommend filling the cavity to help keep water out. When the boat trailer wheels are submersed into the water, the temperature change can pull water into the hub cavity, so the extra grease is there to protect from this water intrusion. Other trailers should never see wheels under water, so all that extra grease is needless. You will never have a bearing problem if the "manufacturers" guidelines are followed. Any other advice can be harmful. I would see this in many maintenance training classes where people would tell me "I've been doing it this way for years (the wrong way)and never had a problem".. It was interesting that those were the customers who spent the most on bearing and machine maintenance. Bottom line - proper amount of grease, new seals, clean hands, clean work area, clean spindle, clean hub, proper running clearance (no preload) = no problems.
Dec-02-2013 03:44 AM
Dec-02-2013 03:35 AM
Dec-01-2013 07:23 PM
Allworth wrote:
Obviously Scott is smarter than all the Engineers at Dexter put together!